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DM 120:Exam 1
apparel
interior furnishings
industrial products
|
three industries supported by textiles industry
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Global Textile Complex
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shows how fibers move from farm/lab to final consumer
|
A company that owns machinery to produce fabric is a:
a. fiber manufacturer
b. jobber
c. converter
d. mill
|
d. mill
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apparel accounts for how much of the textile industry?
|
35%
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interior furnishings accounts for how much of the textile industry?
|
35%
|
industrial products accounts for how much of the textiles industry?
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30%
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What is a fiber?
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small hairlike part of fabric
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what are three ways to produce fibers?
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natural
manufactured
mixed
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What is a yarn?
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Yarn is created by twisting/combining more than 1 fiber or filament.
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What is Fabric?
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It is produced by interlacing or inter-looping yarns.
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what does dyeing do?
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imparts solid color to textiles
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what does printing do?
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imparts design to textiles
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what is finishing?
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additional treatments for fabric
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what is put up?
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fabric packaging
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how long are "shorts"?
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shorter than 40 yards
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how long are remnants?
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1-10 yards
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how are pound goods sold? why?
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by the pound; can't sell by the yard- less than 1 yd in length
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three primary sources of fibers
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mills
converters
importer
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what does a converter do?
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buys griege goods to have dyed/ finished
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two kinds of importers
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direct
import mill
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what is the difference between a direct importer and an import mill?
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direct buys foreign fabric/products; import mill makes yarn/products to export
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three secondary sources of textiles
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jobbers
retail stores
overseas agents
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what do jobbers do?
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buy from mills, converters, and garment manufacturers
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retail stores sell to:
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home sewers
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three parts of the domestic textile industry
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production companies
non-production
textile exports
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how much of domestic apparel/ fabrics imported do textile imports account for?
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a. 30%
b. 50%
c. 40%
d. 60%
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why import?
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cheap labor
superior products
|
what is the difference between a private label and an exclusive brand?
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a private label is specifically manufactured for/ sold exclusively by a retailer; an exclusive brand is a national brand distributed by one retailer
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what are possible environmental concerns in textile production?
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air/water pollution
disposal of waste products
water pollution due to laundering
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what are standards of fair trade production?
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produced without labor exploitation
using eco-friendly practices
producers receive fair prices
|
produced without labor exploitation
using eco-friendly practices
producers receive fair prices
two major international groups related to fair trade are:
|
FLO (Fair Trade Labeling and Organization)
IFAT (International Federation Alternative Trade)
|
what are the two fiber sources?
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natural and manufactured
|
what are two natural fiber sources?
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plants/ animals
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which one of the following uses a solid material in fiber production?
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dry spinning
wet spinning
melt spinning
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dry spinning
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polymer solution+ solvent + warm air
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wet spinning
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polymer solution+ liquide solution
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fibers created by melt spinning
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glass, nylon, polyester, olefin, saran and sulfar
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fibers done by dry spinning
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acetate, acrylic, modacrylic, spandex (major method)
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fibers done by wet spinning
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acrylic, lyocell, rayon, spandex
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what is crimp?
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bends/twists of a fiber
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what are the two ways to identify fiber shape?
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longitudinal
cross-section
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what are epitropic fibers?
|
conduct electricity well
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what are the two types of manufactured fibers?
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regenerated
synthetic
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what is a commodity fiber?
|
no identification of source
|
what is the cheapest way to purchase fibers?
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commodity fibers
|
what is a controlled trademark?
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enables maker to control selling/ use of fiber
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what is another word for spinning solution?
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dope/ melt
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what is extrusion?
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forcing dope through a spinneret
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what are the five ways to modify a fiber?
|
size/shape
molecular structure
add other compounds
modified spinning process
polymer modification
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cellulose acetate substance
|
acetate
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is acetate regenerated or synthetic?
|
is acetate regenerated or synthetic?
regenerated
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what are favorable qualities of acetate?
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excellent drape
luxurious hand
mildew/moth resistant
cheap production
|
what are unfavorable qualities of acetate?
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poor strength
poor elasticity
poor abrasion resistance
fume fading
|
what is acetate usually used for?
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linings
lingerie
graduation gowns
ribbons
cigarette filters
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Celanese, Estron, Chromspun
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trademarks of acetate
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chemical structure of acetate
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purified wood pulp+ acetic acid
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what is the difference between acetate and triacetate?
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the amount of acetic acid used in spinning solution
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true or false:
acetate is wet spun?
|
false; it's dry spun
|
what is the solvent of acetate?
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acetone
|
acrylic contains what percentage of acrylonitrile units?
|
85%
|
favorable properties of acrylic
|
lightweight
good drape
resilient
elaticity
|
unfavorable traits of acrylic
|
less strength when wet
hydrophobic
|
Creslan, Dralon, Silpalon
|
acrylic
|
end uses of acrylic
|
sweaters
blankets
carpeting
outdoor products
|
what are the two types of nylon?
|
nylon 6
nylon 6/6
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what is the molecular composition of nylon 6?
|
caprolactam
|
what is the molecular composition of nylon 6/6?
|
hexamthylenediamine
adipic acid
|
Production of Nylon
|
melt spun, cold drawn
|
true or false:
nylon is the second most manufactured fiber in the U.S.
|
TRUE
|
favorable properties of nylon
|
lightweight
excellent abrasion resistance
strong
|
unfavorable traits of nylon
|
hydrophobic
|
end uses of nylon
|
can be used in all 3 industries supported by textiles industry
|
Anso
Antron
Supplex
TACTEL
|
nylon
|
what is the most commonly modified fiber?
|
nylon
|
what is a hydroscopic fiber?
|
absorbs/ retains moisture
|
favorable properties of olefin
|
lightweight
strong
abrasion resistant
can be blended with other fibers well
|
unfavorable traits of olefin
|
low melting point
not many practical apparel applications
|
end uses of olefin
|
sports/ recreation apparel
|
Herculon, Spectra
|
olefin
|
PLA
|
Polylactic ACid
|
where does PLA come from?
|
natural sugars
|
favorable traits of PLA
|
resilient
biodegradable
|
What are end uses for PLA?
|
bedding
|
what does MVTR stand for?
|
moisture vapor transport rate
|
Thinsulate
|
olefin (produced by 3m)
|
what is the molecular composition of polyester?
|
aromatic carboxylic acid
|
what is the number one textile in U.S. production?
|
polyester
|
favorable traits of polyester
|
medium weight
good strength
abrasion resistant
|
unfavorable traits of polyester
|
hydrophobic
|
end uses of polyester
|
weaves/ knits in apparel
fiberfill
tire cording
medical softgoods
tents
artificial veins
|
Dacron, COOLMAX, Polargard
|
polyester
|
production of polyester
|
melt spun, hot drawn
|
what was the first manufactured fiber?
|
rayon
|
viscose solution
|
wood pulp/cotton linters+ caustic soda
|
favorable traits of rayon
|
medium weight
strong
abrasion resistant
good heat conductor
smooth hand
good drape
|
unfavorable traits of rayon
|
poor elasticity
weak wet
weaker than HWM rayon
progressive shrinking
|
HWM is...
|
High wet modulus
|
HWM viscose solution
|
wood pulp/ cotton linters+ sodium hydroxide
|
Bemberg
Lenzing Viscose
|
rayon
|
rayon production
|
wet spinning process
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what is the difference between HWM and regular rayon?
|
HWM is rounder in shape and typically delustered
|
strongest cellulose fiber
|
lyocell
|
unfavorable traits of lyocell
|
hydrophobic
poor thermal retention
|
Tencel
|
Lyocell
|
SOYSILK
|
Azlon
|
traits of Azlon
|
soft, renewable, weak
|
elastomeric
|
able to stretch and snap back like natural rubber
|
favorable traits of spandex
|
lightweight
strong
|
unfavorable traits of spandex
|
expensive
Grin-through
|
molecular compostition of spandex
|
polyurethane
|
- Lyrca. XFIT Lycra
- Glospan
- Dorlastan
- Creora
|
spandex
|
favorable properties of microfibers
|
soft hand
fluid drape
good wicking
|
unfavorable traits of microfibers
|
more expensive
|
MicroSafe
|
acetate microfiber
|
Fortrel MicroSpun
|
polyester microfiber
|
MicroModal
|
rayon microfiber
|
favorable traits of glass
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strong
stiff
sunproof
flameproof
|
unfavorable traits of glass
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poor elasticity
poor drape
poor hand
hydrophobic
|
Fiberglass
PPG
|
glass
|
favorable traits of metallic
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reduces static
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Lurex
|
metallic
|
uses for Aramid
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heat protective clothing
cables
tires
combat helmets
protective vests
|
Kevlar
Nomex
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Aramid
|
true or false:
Novoloid is produced in the U.S.
|
FALSE
|
uses for novoloid
|
fire fighter apparel
liners in aircraft vessels
|
two sources of rubber
|
natural
synthetic
|
favorable traits of Saran
|
self-extinguishing
|
Saranex
|
Saran
|
true or false: flax is hydrophilic
|
TRUE
|
what does Abaca come from?
|
member of banana tree
|
sericin
|
gum covering raw silk
|
sericulture
|
production of silk
|
favorable traits of silk
|
excellent drape/hand
hydrophillic
lustrous
|
unfavorable traits of silk
|
only fair resiliency
poor abrasion resistance
weaker when wet
|
Tussah
|
silk from wild silk worms
|
spun silk
|
several fibers spun into narrow threads from broken coccoons
|
what is characteristic of silk dupioni?
|
"slubs" along length from changing cocoons
|
nodes
|
joints along the length of bast fibers
|
tow
|
short flax fibers
|
line
|
long flax fibers
|
where does Pina come from?
|
pineapple leaves
|
what is the difference in diet between cultivated silkworms/ wild worms?
|
cultivated eats mulberry; wild eats oak
|
fibroin
|
protein that makes silk
|
favorable traits of spider silk
|
STRONG
ELASTIC
|
uses for spider silk
|
artificial veins/ capilllaries
|
when is shearing done?
|
spring
|
three parts of wool fiber
|
medulla
cortex
cuticle
|
pulled wool
|
comes from carcasses
|
kinds of wool
|
pulled
recycled
lamb's
virgin
|
favorable traits of wool
|
resilient
excellent hand
drape
low static
warm
absorbs moisture slowly w/o feeling damp
|
unfavorable traits of wool
|
less strength when wet
poor luster
high shrink rate
pilling
|