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DM 272: MIDTERM
Standard Test Methods and Specification
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American Standards for Testing and Materials (ASTM); Acceptance testing; in-house specification (usually higher)
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Performance characteristics and testing
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American Association Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
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Smoothness appearance testing
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Evaluate fabrics after laundering. 5-point scale; durable-press ratings
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Environmental Conditions for Textile Testing
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Temperature; humidity
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Absolute humidity (AH)
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Mass of water in a unit volume of air (such as g/L)
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Vapor pressure (p)
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The partial pressure of water vapor in air
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Relative humidity (RH)
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The ratio of the mass of water present in a unit volume of air saturated with water
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How to measure humidity
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Psychrometer or sling psychrometer
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Standard conditions for textile testing
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Humidity: 65+-1% RH; Temperature: 21+-1 degrees C (70 degrees F)
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Hysteresis |
Moisture history; fabric's moisture sorption behavior as it is influenced by its moisture history
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Exceptions to standard conditions
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Flammability (specimens must be bone-dry); Thermal transmittance testing; electrostatic properties
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Moisture regain (MR)
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(mass of sorbed water/mass of dry specimen)x100%
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Moisture content (MC)
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(Mass of sorbed water/mass of wet specimen)x100%
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Moisture sorption capacity of different fibers
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wool>cotton>nylon. Because they absorb steam, cotton and wool are easier to iron
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Effect of moisture on textile properties
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Fabric density/weight
Mechanical properties (does moisture strengthen or weaken?)
Elongation/elastic recovery
Thermal insulation properties
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Fiber structure
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Regular areas=crystalline and give strength. Random areas are amorphous and allow moisture wicking, dye, and stretch
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Blend |
Fabric contains more than one fiber, and individual yarns can contain more than one fiber
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Mixture
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Fabric contains more than one fiber, but individual yarns are 100% of one fiber
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Warp |
Yarns in a woven fabric that run parallel to selvage; may be termed ends
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Filling (weft)
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Yarns in a woven fabric that run at right angles to the selvage
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Staple fibers
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Measured in inches. May be natural or cut manufactured; twist holds these fibers in a yarn. All natural fibers except silk are staple fibers and they are less uniform.
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Filament |
Measured in yards or meters. Includes all manufactured fibers and silk, and are more uniform
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Steps for yarn testing
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Fabric components
Burning tests
Microscope test
Solubility tests (Acetone, hydrochloric acid, nitric acid)
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Twist direction
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Yarns twisted clockwise for s twist (up to left); yarns twisted clockwise (up to right) for z twist. Majority of spun yarns are z twist!
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Choosing right twist
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Filament yarns used for smooth fabrics have no or low twist
Yarns for napping, bulky sweaters, pile in towels have low twist
Crepe yarn for plain and crepe weave have high twist
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Simple yarns
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Characterized by uniform size and regular surface
Single
Ply (2 singles)
Cord (2 ply yarns)
Rope (2+ cords)
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Fancy/noveltyyarns
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Typically 2+ strands with decorative surface effects
Slub yarns
Flock/flake yarns
Nub/knot/spot yarns
Boucle and loop yarns
Spiral and corkscrew yarns
Chenille yarns
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Textured yarns
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Made of filament fibers with changed surface, shape, and texture. Developed by using new spinning techniques. Usually made of nylon and polyester with 2 main types, stretch and bulk
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Stretch yarns
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Made by using special heat setting treatment on chemically treated natural fibers, elastomeric fibers, bi-component, and bi-constituent fibers
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Bulk yarns
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Softer, more pliable than tightly contracted twisted yarns; used for less transparent fabrics
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Fabric Constructions
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Woven
Knit
Nonwoven
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Weaving by hand
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Loom holds warp yarns
Shuttle holds weft yarn
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Weaving by machine
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Plain (1x1, strong, hard-wearing)
Twill (2x2 etc; diagonal pattern; drapes well; denim, chino, gabardine, canvas)
Satin (filling over four, under one; filling yarns float; less stable
Other: basket, jacquard, pile, ribbed
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Fabric testing
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Construction
Thickness
Weight
Density
Count
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Flame resistant
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When a textile extinguishes the flame after ignition regardless of whether source of ignition is removed
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Flame retardant
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Textile treated with finish to give flame resistant properties
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Properties affecting flammibility
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Fiber content (modacrylic is inherently flame resistant)
Ignition
Thermoplastic fibers (nylon, polyesters, olefin)
Raised fiber surface
Heavier fabrics harder to ignite
Scaffolding effect (cotton/polyester)
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Flammibility tests
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45 degree angle test
Vertical flame test
Carpet testing
Cigarette tests
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Inches to CM
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1 in=2.54 cm
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Mass units
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1 oz=28.4 g
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Yarn numbering systems
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1 tex=9 denier
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Code for Children's Sleepwear/Vertical flame test
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16 CFR 1615 and 1616
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45 degree angle test standards
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ASTM D 1230
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FFA |
Flammable Fabrics Act of 1953, designed to keep dangerously flammable fabrics off the market
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CPSC
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Consumer Product Safety Commission
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How to determine significant figures
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Count the number of digits from left to right beginning with first non-zero digit. When at least one non-zero digit displays before the decimal, include any zeros to the right of the decimal. Zeros to the left of the decimal don't count.
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AATCC |
American Association of Textile Colorists and Chemists
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Temperature Conversions
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C=5/9(F-32)
F=9/5(C)+32
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