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DM 120: EXAM 3
Woven Fabrics
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Made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other.
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Projectile Loom
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One projectile with grippers carries the yarn across the full width of the shed.
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Rapier Loom
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A steel tape or rod pulls the filling yarn across the loom.
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Jet Loom
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A high-speed jet takes the filling yarn across the loom.
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Air-Jet Loom
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Type of Jet Loom. Initial propulsion force is by a main nozzle. Relay nozzles produce additional booster jets to carry the filling across the loom.
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Water-Jet Loom
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Type of Jet Loom. Only a main nozzle to provide propulsion of filling yarn. Equipped with drying units.
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Multiphase Loom
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Multiple sheds. Not as versatile but greater productivity.
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Warp Yarn
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Runs parallel to selvage.
Stronger, more uniform, higher twist
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Weft Yarn
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"Filling yarns" or "pick".
Runs perpendicular to selvage.
Generally has more stretch than warp yarns.
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Grain
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Orientation of yarns. Affects drape, wear, and care. Critical at cutting stage.
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Bias |
-"Off grain".
-Direction not parallel to either the weft or warp yarns.
-True bias is 45°.
-Maximum stretch of fabric.
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Yarns per Inch
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-Given by two numbers with an x in between them. The first number is warp yarns per inch, second is filling yarns per inch.
-Greater YPI gives the fabric more strength, weight, better hand, reduced yarn shifting and better abrasion resistance.
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Warp Yarn vs. Filling Yarn
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-Warp yarns are usually thinner, stronger (has more twist), more YPI, stiffer and less stretchable than filling yarns.
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Plain Weave
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-"Balanced Fabric"
-Reversible
-Simplest and most used weave
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Ribbed Plain Weave
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-Type of plain weave
-"Unbalanced fabric"
-One yarn is thicker than the other
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Basket Weave
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-Type of plain weave
-Two or more warp yarns interlace two or more filling yarns
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Twill Weave
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-Produce diagonal lines on the cloth
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Right-Hand Twill
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-Type of twill weave
-Diagonals run upwards to the right
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Left-Hand Twill
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-Type of twill weave
-Diagonals run upwards to the left
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Broken Twill Weave
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-Type of twill weave
-Combination of right-hand and left-hand twill
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Satin Weave
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-Designated by the number of harnesses used to create them.
-5-harness (5-shaft) is most common
-Made by "floating" warp or weft yarns across several yarns.
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Sateen Fabric
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Cotton fabric in a filling-face satin weave
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Crepe-Back Satin
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-Type of satin weave
-Warp yarns are fine and have little twist while filling yarns are highly twisted
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Which weave makes the strongest fabric?
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-Weaves with long floats produce the strongest fabric because these fabrics can be made with the greatest number of yarns per inch and fewest interlacing
-Satin weave
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Leno Weave
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-Special weave
-Warp yarns twist back and forth in pairs around filling yarns
-Open but stable structure
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Pile Weave
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-Material with raised hair-like or fur-like surface
-Surface is produced with an extra set of yarns
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Warp-Pile
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Have an extra set of warp yarns.
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Filling-Pile
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Having an extra set of weft yarns.
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Double Cloth
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-Two fabrics held together by a separate set of warp yarns
-Each fabric is made using one set of warp yarns and one set of filling yarns
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Dobby Pattern
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-Woven design
-Contains simple geometrical forms and motifs
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Jacquard Pattern
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-Woven design
-Contains detailed intricate, motifs
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Clip-Spot Pattern
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-Woven design
-Design is created with an additional yarn that interlaces with the ground fabric in spots and floats along the technical back of the fabric.
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Color-and-Weave Effect
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-Woven design
-Pattern produced using a certain weave and arrangement of differently colored yarns in both the warp and the filling
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Factors Affecting the Cost of Fabric
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-Fiber content
-Yarn type
-Fabric construction
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Concerns for Manufacturers of Products
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-Cost of raw materials
-Capital costs
-Costs of energy and conservation
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Knitted Fabric
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Fabrics formed by the intermeshing of loops
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Direct Knitters
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-Purchase yarn
-Knit products
-Sell merchandise under their own trademark
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Commission Knitters
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Produce products for a second party, who furnishes the yarn to the commission knitter and receives the completed knit fabric or product
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Two Branches of Knitting Industry
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-Knitted yarns goods industry
-Knitted end-products industry
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Wales |
Columns of stitches in a knitted fabric
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Courses |
Rows of stitches in a knitted fabric
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Face of Knit Fabric
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Tends to have more knit stitches
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Machine Nomenclature
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-Knitting machine
-Allows for a complete row of loops to be produced at one time
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Circular Machines
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-Knitting needles are in a circular configuration
-Fabric produced is in tubular form
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Flat Machines
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-Knitting needles are in a straight line
-Produces flat fabrics
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Industrial Knitting Needle
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Used primarily in weft knitting
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Latch Knitting Needle
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-Used primarily in warp knitting
-Used with coarse yarns
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Spring Beard Knitting Needle
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-Used primarily in warp knitting
-Used with fine yarns
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Cut of the Machine
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-The number of slots per inch on a knitting machine
-The higher the cut, the more closely knit a fabric can be made
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Gauge
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-Number of needles in measured space on a knitting machine
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Knit Stitch
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-"Plain stitch"
-Basic knitting stitch
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Purl Stitch
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-"Reverse knit stitch"
-The reverse of the knit stitch
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Miss Stitch
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-Created when one or more needles is deactivated and do not move into position to accept a yarn
-"Float stitch" (floats on the back)
-Used to create color and figure designs
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Tuck Stitch
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Created when a knitting needle holds its old loop and then receives a new yarn
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Classifications of Knitted Fabrics
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-Weft Knits
-Warp Knits
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Weft Knit
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-Yarn transverses horizontally (or around), interlacing with the needles to form new fabric stitches
-Basic weft knits include jersey knit, rib-knit and purl-knit
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Warp Knit
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-Yarn transverses vertically interacting with the needles to form new fabric stitches
-Basic warp knits include tricot and raschel
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Jersey Knit
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-"Single knit"
-Knit stitch on face, purl stitch on back
-All loops drawn to one side of the fabric
-Definite face (smooth) and back (bumpy)
-Stretches equally in length and width
-Highest machine productivity
-Curls at ends, susceptible to runs in the wale
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Rib-Knit
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-Wales predominate on face
-Alternating wales of knit stitches (raised) and purl stitches (recessed)
-Reversible
-Greater stretch in width
-Second highest machine productivity
-Lies flat
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Purl-Knit
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-Courses predominate on face and back
-Knit and purl stitches in the same wale
-Reversible
-Greater stretch in length
-Lowest machine productivity
-Lies flat
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Interlock Knits
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-Specialized weft-knit
-Variation of rib-knit in that columns of wales are directly behind one another (instead of adjacent to one another)
-Smoother, more stable, better insulators, more expensive, less stretch than rib-knit
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Double Knits
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-Specialized weft-knit
-Close stitches with a patterned or designed effect
-Uses miss and/or tuck stitches
-Thicker, heavier and more stable than single knits
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High-Pile Knits
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-Specialized weft-knit
-"Pile knits" or "sliver knits"
-Jersey knits with thick pile inserted on the purl side
-Made with staple fibers in the form of sliver (untwisted strands of somewhat parallel fibers)
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Knitted Terry
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-Specialized weft-knit
-Jersey knit materials with two yarns feeding simultaneously into the same knitting needles.
-One yarn appears on the face and the other on the back
-Softer, more flexible and more absorbent than woven terry but doesn't hold shape as well
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Knitted Velour
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-Specialized weft-knit
-Jersey knit materials with two yarns feeding simultaneously into the same knitting needles.
-One yarn appears on the face and the other on the back
-Softer, more flexible and more absorbent than woven terry but doesn't hold shape as well
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Full-Fashioned Knits
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-Specialized weft-knit
-Garment is fully knitted to desired shape and size
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Design in Weft-Knit Fabrics
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-Design by color arrangement of yarns (horizontal stripes)
-Design by construction of fabric (miss and tuck stitches create pattern)
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Seamless Knitting
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-Mid 1990s
-One yarn makes an entire garment
-Lowers manufacturing costs
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Warp vs. Weft Knitting
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-Warp Knitting
Stretch in length and width
May run or ravel
Rapid to new designs
-Weft Knitting
Limited stretch
Does not run or ravel easily
Slower and more costly to new designs
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Tricot Fabric
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-Largest warp-knit production
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Tricot Jersey
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-Most used tricot construction
-Can be identified by the face having all knit stitches appearing in vertical columns and the cross wise underlaps on the back
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Satin Tricot
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-Variation of the plain jersey tricot
-Long underlaps up to six wales wide on the back
-Widthwise stability
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Brushed Tricot
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-"Napped tricot"
-Long underlaps have been given a mechanical napping finish
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Raschel Fabrics
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-Type of warp-knit fabric
-Capable of producing fabrics with interesting surface effects almost to the point of being 3-dimensional
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Tricot vs. Raschel Fabrics
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-Tricot has fine yarns, fine gauge and no design or simple geometric patterns
-Raschel has heavy yarns, coarse gauge, intricate designs and complex "open spacing" (lace)
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Simplex |
-Minor warp-knit
-Knit stitches on both sides.
-Fabric is thicker and firmer than comparable tricot
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Milanese
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-Minor warp-knit
-Fine rib on the face and diagonal patterning on the back
-Made with two sets of yarn
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Laid-In Yarn Fabrics
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Extra yarns are added to knit fabrics which are caught in the knit stitches
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Inlay Yarns
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-Type of laid-in fabric
-Yarns run lengthwise in a warp-knit and come from a separate warp beam
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Weft-Insertion Knit
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-Type of laid-in yarn fabric
-Laid in crosswise direction as the fabric was being knit
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Woven vs. Knitted Fabric
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-Woven
Rigid
Wrinkle recovers less readily
Good insulation with wind resistance
-Knitted
Molds to fit body shapes
Wrinkle recovers readily
Good insulation in still air
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Effects of Knitted Fabrics
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-More wales is more stable in width
-More courses is more stable in length
-More wales and courses recovers better from stretching
-Fewer wales and courses stretches more easily
-More wales shrinks less in width
-More courses shrinks less in length
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Nonwoven Fabrics
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-A textile structure produced by bonding or interlocking fibers into a web
-Introduced in 1942 by Drylaid Technology
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Durable Nonwoven
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Not intended to be thrown away after limited use
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Disposable Nonwoven
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Intended to be thrown away after single use
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Manufacturing Nonwoven Fabrics
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-Drylaid
-Spunlaid
-Wetlaid
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Drylaid |
-Material structure has the fibers manipulated while in dry state
-Most used system
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Wetlaid
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Fibers are manipulated while in a wet set
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Spunlaid
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Material structure is formed by blowing thermoplastic fibers onto the surface as the fibers are being extruded.
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Carded-Web Nonwoven
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-First nonwovens (early 1940s)
-Most used
-Produced by forming a web of staple fibers (drylaid or wetlaid) and then bonding them with an adhesive or though heat fusion
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Spunlaced Nonwovens
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-Wetlaid
-Formed by the entanglement of staple fibers, using needle-like, high pressure water jets on the web (hydroentangling)
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Spunbonded Nonwovens
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-Spunlaid
-Made from the continuous extrusion of filaments into a web
-Consist of randomly oriented filament fibers consolidated by bonding or entanglement of fibers
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Melt-Blown Nonwovens
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-Spunlaid
-Similar to spunbonded but filaments are microdenier in size
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Needle-Punched Nonwovens
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-"Mechanical felt" or "needle punched felt"
-Resembles felt but made with any staple fiber
-Produced by the entanglement of fibers to hold them together (drylaid)
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Fusible nonwoven
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-Developed in late 1960s
-Fabric material that is bonded together opposed to interweaving threads
-Applied with thermoplastic adhesive and heat
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Hybrid Products
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Combines technologies (drylaid, wetlaid, spunlaid) into a single nonwoven sheet
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Nonwoven Wipes
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-Began with disinfectant and floor-cleaning wipes
-In 2000, Swifter was introduced by Procter & Gamble Co.
-Wipes are either wet, dry or coated
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Felt |
-Oldest textile
-Does not fray or run
-Non a nonwoven because the fibers are not held together with adhesive, fusion or mechanical binding
-Created with heat, agitation and moisture
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Bonded Fabrics
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Layered fabric structure in which a face fabric is joined to a backing fabric with an adhesive that doesn’t add significantly to the thickness of the combined fabrics
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Wet-Adhesive
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Process in which adhesives are applied to the fabric and then passed between two series of hot rollers to activate and set
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Foam-Flame Bonding
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-Uses an extremely thin layer of polyurethane foam that is heated to make it tacky and adhesive
-It is then sandwiched between the face and the back of the fabric
-More widely used
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Laminated Fabrics
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-Similar to foam-flame bonding except a thicker layer of foam is used
-Face fabric, polyurethane foam or nonwoven and backing fabric (usually tricot) are bonded by an adhesive
-"Foam-laminated fabrics"
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Quilted Material
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-Insulating filler secured between two layers of fabrics
-Held together by either sewing or bonding
-Bonding can only happen if all components have at least 50% thermoplastic fiber content
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Quilted Filling
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-Polyester fiberfill (most common)
-Polyester batting (thin insulation)
-Polyurethane foam (stiffer)
-Down (light and luxurious)
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Lace |
-Very complex
-Decorative design created by threads or yarns on a netlike, open background
-Real lace is made by hand
-Machine made lace (Leavers Lace) began in 1800s
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Alençon Lace
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Delicate lace usually made with fine, solid flower designs and outlined by heavy threads.
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All Over Lace
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At least 36in. wide with the pattern repeated over the entire surface
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Artifical Lace
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Simple design produced by burn-out prints instead of lace machine
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Chantilly
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Delicate lace, similar to Alençon, except designs are vine or floral motifs.
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Edging
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Narrow lace with one edge straight and the other scalloped
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Flouncing
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Fashion trimming lace 18-36" wide with one main edge scalloped
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Galloon |
Narrow lace with both edges scalloped
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Insertion
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Trimming lace in the form of a strip with two straight edges
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Leavers Lace
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Fine lace used for apparel
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Nottingham Lace
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Large designs and rougher texture
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Reembroidered Lace
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Pattern is outlined, usually with heavy thread or cord, after the lace is made.
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Ribbon-Hole Lace
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Narrow lace with slots through which ribbon can be threaded
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Reembroidered Lace
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-Decorating cloth with needlework
-Machine-made on Schiffli Machine
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Ribbon-Hole Lace
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Narrow lace with slots through which ribbon can be threaded
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Embroidery |
-Decorating cloth with needlework
-Machine-made on Schiffli Machine
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Tufted Fabrics
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Fabrics that have a pile consisting of tufts (cut loops) or loops
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