2373 Exam 2 Study Guide Autumn 2013 Covers Chapters 5 8 and Fashion in Film DVD Research Collection Line o Apparel presented through runway shows o Ex Marc Jacobs Spring 2013 collection o One large group or several small groups of apparel items or styles developed around a theme or a purpose o Ex Marc by Marc Jacobs Swimwear Carryovers o Styles that repeat from one season line to the next o All take into consideration Target customer Market research Fashion trends Color trends Fabric trends Retailer needs Designers responsibilities o Research the market o Select colors fabrics and styling o Consult with product engineers regarding costing o Prepare the preliminary specification sheets o Suggest linings interfacings trims buttons o Present technical drawings or sketches o Release approved styles to patternmaking o Coordinate during preproduction and production Consumer research o Provides information about consumer characteristics and consumer behavior o Demographics Age Gender Marital status Income Occupation Ethnicity Geographic location o Psychographics Buying habits Attitudes Values Motives Preferences Personality Leisure activities Product research o Provides information about preferred product design and preferred characteristics o Tools include Surveying potential customers verbally Sending a questionnaire Offer a free trial product in exchange for feedback Market analysis Target markets o Provides information about general market trends o Long range forecasting o Short range forecasting o Each apparel line produced must have a clearly defined target customer o The profile or description includes demographic and psychographic characteristics for the majority of customers o Gender age range lifestyle and geographic location price zone income buying o use of the appeal of the target customer s lifestyle choices especially in product habits education Lifestyle marketing advertising Fashion forecasting services o a company that predicts consumers future style preferences and trends in textiles and apparel Predictions are based on research conducted by its staff and other associatio Color research o Certain staple colors appear frequently Ex Black navy white beige o One or more staple colors are included in each line o Fashion colors appear less frequently o After studying the trends designers pick a color palette or color story for the o A three to five yard length of fabric ordered from a textile mill by the apparel manufacturer to use for making a prototype garment season Sample cuts Design Where does inspiration come from o Design inspiration Studying pictures Collecting swatches Innovative design details Researching other cultures Searching the market o Color inspiration Color trend report inspires a color for the line Ex Golden trout color for a fishing apparel line o Historic inspiration o Retro fashion Return to the fashion or more recent decades Manipulate fabrics and style details for a new fashion twist o Ethnic Inspiration May come from clothing styles of another culture o Nature as inspiration o Fabric texture trim inspiration Zeitgeist o Social spirits of the time o Cultural intellectual ethical spiritual political climate in a specific group o Ex Kids on the streets who set the trends Market niche o The blend of product type with target customer o Important to maintain a line based on the market niche o Variations of style must appeal to the variety of customer needs and tastes within the market niche Planning and costing the line o Product developer Researches possible fabrics and trims Works with vendors to secure components for the style Coordinates all aspects of style creation In smaller companies the designer may handle product development o Planning meetings might include Target number of styles in the line Ratio of jacket to vests or skirts to pants Carryovers from previous season Types of silhouettes Colors and fabrics What to try new Costs of all components o Costing Two garments in a line should not compete for sales Pricing strategies need to make sense to the customers Price averaging Ex Shirt made from a more expensive fabric will be priced slightly lower and a shirt from a less expensive fabric will be priced higher so the prices average out Target costing Design team sets a target retail price for a garment and work backward to figure what fabrics finding and labor go into making the garment Copies vs knockoff o Line for line copy o Knockoffs A facsimile of an existing garment that sells at a lower price than the original The copy might be made in a less expensive fabric and might have some design details modified or eliminated o Copyrights and trademarks protect some things but no laws in US to protect garment designs unless special process Croquis CAD o Computer Aided Design o Graphic software o Textile Design o Strike off sample yardage of a textile print Draping o Madeline Vionnet o Donna Karen Garment specification sheet Assign style number Define placement and spacing of buttons Any edge stitching or top stitching Define spacing between pleats or tucks Findings Pocketing lining fabric interfacing o Provides all details about the garment so it can be made by the patternmaker Fashion and Film Role of film in fashion of the late 20 s and 30 s and today Product placement in film Bernard Waldman and the Modern Merchandising Bureau o Established by Bernard Waldman in 1930 o Bureau played fashion middleman between all the studios but Warner Brothers o By mid 30 s the Waldman system operated like this Sketches or photos of styles for and actress in a specific film were sent to the Bureau could be a year in advance Staff evaluated styles and calculated trends Contracted with manufacturers time for the films release Secured advertising photos to send to retail shops mentioning the film star studio and theatres Waldmans cut was 5 Cinema Fashions o Established by Waldman o Macy s contracted for the first ones in 1930 o By 1934 there were 298 shops o By 1937 there were 400 o Dresses were 30 and more all agrees that cheaper lines would cheapen the stars o Inevitable the styles went to mass production Fashion inspiring films o Fashion inspiring films The Jungle Princess Dorothy Lamour Edith Head and sarongs The Beret 1936 The Kiss 1929 Greta Garbo Last silent movie from MGM Carrie Bradshaw Katherine Hepburn Bringing Up Baby 1938 pants Marlon Brando The Wild One 1954 Cuff jeans leather cap motorcycle jacket tight skirts bikinis Bridgette Bardot And God