CHAPTER 8 TRIMES AND SURFACE EMBELLISHMENTS Findings All components of garment except the body fabric Trims labels threads elastics closures Trims subset of Findings Decorative linear material Embellishes garments Attached to surface or inserted in seam Produce dimensional effect Outline and emphasize garment or section Create decorative pattern on surface Which finding or trim to use Style and design of garment Depends on Type Use Care of garment Construction method Compatibility with shape color size and fabric of garment Cost Findings Trims Can be aesthetic and or functional Aesthetic decorative only must coordinate with garment and add to its beauty Functional perform an action utility and durability are required Dimensional Stability must maintain size and shape during life or garment Trims must have elasticity they may be added around a curve Nonwoven printed labels used on casual and low price clothing Woven label creates impression of high quality Must withstand repeated home laundering abrasion chemicals can Labels shorten life Thread Yarn that forms stitches that can hold a garment together Can be functional sew seams together Can be aesthetics top stitching and embroidery Garment s stitches and performance affected by thread s Strength Durability Appearance Texture Fiber content Most polyester nylon cotton or rayon Staple yarns twisted together LEAST EXPENSIVE Types Filament monofilament or multifilament Corespun polyester or nylon with cotton or other fiber wrapping MOST Well coordinated thread color is mark of quality either match or EXPENSIVE complement garment Typically color slightly darker than fabric is best match Colorfast should fade in unison with garment fabric should not bleed or crock rub off Trims Should be compatible with wear and care requirements Used more in garments for females and children Additional cost can vary widely Complex more expensive Wider more expensive Sewn on application more expensive Trims Include Braid Cording Fringe Lace Piping Ribbon BRAID Design oriented Hand sewn on Elaborate complex More expensive Trim made from gimp yarns interlace to create decorative pattern Available in variety of colors patterns and widths Soft cotton cellulose or synthetic yarn rope CORDING Diameter 1 8 to 1 in Sewn into seam or attached to face of garment Can add body and stiffness for standout effect OR Outlines and emphasizes garment part or section FRINGE Tape or braid with threads or cords that hang free Tape or braid stitched onto surface or inserted into seam Free hanging threads can be formed into tassels Used to Elongate hemlines Decorate horizontal seams Emphasize movement with garment worn LACE Twisting and knotting yarns or Raschel knit Openwork pattern Floral motifs most common May have decorative edge Creates feminine effect however lace is worn by both men and women Decorate Edge Lace Picot PIPING Scallops Bias strip stitched with or without cord filler Produced with seam allowance inserted into seam Adds body and stiffness for standout effect Outlines and emphasizes bands applied to garment Shows on face of garment RIBBON Narrow firmly woven fabric Has a plain satin or picot edge Types Grosgrain grow grain Lace Organdy or chiffon hold shape see though Satin single or double faced Velvet single or double faced Jacquard complex fancy weave Surface Embellishment Elements added to face of garments Changed the aesthetic appearance Embellish garment Add design detail on face of garment Produce dimensional effect Decorative effect Emphasize garment part Create a decorative focal point Which surface embellishment to use Depends on see trim SURFACE EMBELLISHMENTS Applique Beads Embossing Embroidery Foiling Rhinestones Screen printing Sequins Trapunto Applique rhinestones Embossing Embroidery Base fabric fused or stitched with thread fabric beading sequins or Beads Small ball tube or other shape with a hole Can be strung then attached to garment OR Sewn individually onto garment OR Sewn on base fabric and attached as applique Made from acrylic glass nut shell stone or wood Raised surface texture created with special nonwoven or knit fusible backing AND Synthetic rubber mold design AND heat press Design created by stitching a pattern on surface of garment with thread USED TO Add decorative pattern Add a logo text or object to garment Personalize or customize a garment Foiling Metallic surface design on garment created by applying synthetic film with heat press Film is permanently bonded to garment Produces a metallic effect Rhinestones Faceted glass or plastic imitation gemstones Made in a variety of colors and sizes Produce a shimmering or sparkling effect on garment Can be glued or ironed on fabric garment Screen Printing Pigment applied to screen Pressure used to squeeze pigment through screen onto fabric One scree needed for each color Sequins Small thin discs or squares Plastic matte or shiny finish Center hold Attached individually on strong or part of applique Produce shimmering effect Trapunto Embroidered pattern stitched onto garment Padding or cording inserted to create 3 D effect Closures a k a fasteners Close or secure garment sections together Functional and or decorative CLOSURES Snap fasteners Zippers Buttons buttonholes button loops Hooks Drawstrings lacings ties Belts buckles Others Buttons garment TYPES OF BUTTONS Flat Dome Half round Ball Buttons 3 D FORM DISK KNOT OR OTHER 3 D FORM Used to close or fasten garment sections together or attach something to Slipped through buttonhole loop or narrow opening Ligne leen or lean or leen yuh unit of measure to indicate diameter of button SIZE One ligne 0 025 inch or One inch diameter 40 ligne Buttons are they decorative functional or both Sew through button Decorative not used to open and close garment or parts on a garment Functional used to open and close garment or parts on a garment Buttons 2 3 4 sewing holes equidistant from center Used to attach button to garment USES Boxer briefs and boxer shorts Casual shirts dress shirts sport shirts sweater Casual pants shorts and trousers Dresses and skirts Flange portion where holes or eyes are drilled or formed Jackets coats and outerwear Loungewear sleepwear and robes Suits and vests Buttons Shank 3 D form Protrusion on underside containing loop or hole to attach it to garment Heavy and bulky fabrics used to construct garment USES Blouses and sweater Dresses and gowns Buttons Jackets coats and outwear Loungewear sleepwear and robes Invisible