MDSE 2650 Textiles Chapter 12 Notes Chapter 12 Basic Weaves Fabrics Fabric Structure The fabric forming process Weaving Most common Knitting Structure Effects Fabric Appearance Texture Luster Performance Tenacity Dimensional Stability Cost Characteristics of Woven Yarn Two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles Warp yarns Lengthwise direction Weft or filling yarns Crosswise direction Most common method of producing fabric Rigid and firm Low stretch Yarns unravel at cut edges Yarns interlace Interlacing How warp yarns move into filling Yarn changes position from one side of the fabric the other Crossing over more than 1 yarn at a time produces floats and fewer interlacings Warp yarns Stronger More Uniform Higher Twist Filling yarns Often special use yarns Fancy Low Twist for napping Grain Position of warp relative to filling yarns On grain Warp yarns parallel to each other and perpendicular to filling Off grain Results in uneven drape crooked designs and twisted seams Fabric count or fabric density Number of yarns per square inch of fabric Effects fabric quality Dimensional stability Opaqueness Softness Strengh Higher count usually means Better quality Less shrinkage More Softness Balanced Vs Unbalanced fabric count The ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns Weft Balanced ratio of 1 1 or 80x80 ex Unbalanced ratio 2 1 or 144x76 ex Needs to be a 1 1 ratio or very close Questions to ask yourself When unraveled are there more yarns on one side than the other Do the yards appear to be the same size