Apparel Production Overview THE PRODUCTION PROCESS CH 4 Apparel Production is a combination of human ingenuity sophisticated technology and innovative machinery Planning is imperative Drop ship date when the goods due in the store Calendars essential concept pre production production stages PDM product data management system to track and monitor all phases of production of each style PLM product lifestyle management manage entire lifecycle of product from conception through design and manufacturing to service and delivery Production cycles and time and action calendars vary from company to company based on type of products manufactured internal or external production quickness to marketplace pressures Agile or lean manufacturing response to Apparel Production Cycle RTW 1 Evaluation of previous line what sold well last season 2 At what stage in fashion cycle is the style that sold well last season Has consumer demand changed Trends enter and exit quickly Classics last long time e g decades 3 Trend Analysis Travel and observe street fashion Attend trade shows Establish in house trend department Subscribe to forecasting services Read trade publications and visit on line sites 4 Design Computer aided design and drafting CADD Enables creation manipulation and modification Adobe Illustrator Adobe Photoshop 5 Technical Design Perfect the pattern pieces and make them ready for production 1st patterns from design to individual pattern pieces Digitizer convert paper pattern into digital form 6 Technical Design making design ready for production Snapfashun http www snapfashun com Sloper oak tag Sample garment made by experienced sewer only helps determine production cost provides 3 D prototype Marker arrangement of pattern pieces to achieve most efficient layout Apparel Production Cycle RTW Fabrics that must relax before cutting Fabric accounts for 60 to 70 of total cost of basic styled garments Spreading Laying out multiple piles of uncut fabric prior to cutting out pattern pieces Must watch for Fabric flaws Directional patterns or naps End of roll Cutting Mistakes are expensive and may not be fixable Manual cutting requires skill accuracy and strength Computer guided cutting also used Knits may be cut with dies to avoid stretching Pattern pieces numbered and bundled after cutting AND Appropriate country of origin and production facility Sourcing Refers to process of selecting raw material or components Lead time Some factors to consider when sourcing Production capacity availability Quality Cost Culture differences Political economic stability Transportation Government regulations Human rights Costing Process of estimating and determining total cost of producing a garment Raw material Labor Tariffs Transportation Insurance General expenses of business operation Amount of time needed to complete an operation effectively within each Standard allowed minutes SAM required operation of a garment Costing Terms Wholesale price manufacturer s price offered to buyer negotiate Retail price price offered or charged to final consumer Keystone markup retailer pricing strategy that doubles the wholesale cost Balancing Cost and Quality Consumers want good quality but low price What can be adjusted to meet price consumer wants to pay maintain quality and still be profitable Design Material Construction Finishes Apparel Production Cycle RTW Major production methods 1 Progressive bundle system Piecework rate paid per item completed 1894 Frederick Taylor Complete same task on each garment efficient Work is passed in bundles from one operator to next manually traditional Standard allowed minutes SAMs Scientific mgmt efficient assembly line production in factory assembly line System can detect when operators need to switch jobs 2 Unit production system Operators cross trained to do multiple jobs Computers used to send bundles to next operator Piece rate wages 3 Modular manufacturing Operators work in teams Paid by team vs individual Sew one garment at a time Operators are cross trained move among different stations Improved morale enhanced quality reduced worked turnover Post assembly steps Wet and dry processing Color removal Wrinkle prevention Dyeing Pressing Finishing Trimming Inspecting Repair rework All aspects are checked garment packaging labeling and carton marking Floor ready e g garments on hangers or GOH Final Audit accuracy Statistical sampling used to check quality If quality level not met 100 inspection is done Chapter 5 Shape Silhouette Style Focus on Design Development Garment Shape Gshape Fabric Grain Lengthwise grain runs in warp direction woven runs in wale direction knits parallel to selvage most stable most garments cut on it Orientation of yarns that make up the fabric Bias grain true bias at 45 degree to warp or walk most stretch for woven Cross Grain runs in filling direction woven runs in course direction knits border printed parallel to selvage Grain fabric Bias Woven garments cut on true bias Drape and roll beautifully Hang close to body emphasize contours True bias cut fabric is ideal as binding because it stretches and rolls Emphasizes geometric fabric prints sheen and light refraction or metallic yarns BIAS COST ALERT Bias layout wastes considerable more fabric than straight of grain layout Bias cut garments more difficult to sew as they tend to stretch out of shape during construction Bias cuts not frequently used in low price lines Off Grain garment will not hang correctly will appear twisted may become Grain and Quality uncomfortable to wear Gshape Shaping methods dart equivalents Control the way the garment fits the contours of the body using darts and Cost Alert Price is affected by shaping methods used Garments with darts do not usually fit as wide as range of sizes DARTS Means of shaping fabric to fit the figure Allow for extra fabric to be taken up and molded around curves of body Women s clothing has more darts Single and double pointed darts Shape method to make a 2D piece of fabric fit a 3D body Dart Equivalents p 164 172 Shaped seams plus gores and yokes Style fullness includes released darts gathers shirring smocking elastic and drawstrings Others includes stretch fabric bias cut pieces pleats tucks godets gussets full fashioned knits and lacing Gshape shaped seams Princess Seams Incorporates bust and waist darts in fitted Womenswear Yokes Gores Fullness Smocking Elastics Horizontal division within a garment Usually at shoulder waist or midriff Vertical divisions