Chapter 8 03 11 2014 Trims and Surface Embellishments Findings o All components of garment except the body fabric Trims Decorative linear material Embellishes garments Attached to surface or inserted in seam to produce a dimensional effect outline and emphasize garment or section create decorative pattern on surface Labels threads elastics closures o Which finding or trim to use Depends on Style and design of garment Type Use Care Construction method Compatibility with shape color size and fabric Cost Findings and Trims o Can be aesthetic and or functional o Dimensional Stability Must maintain size and shape during life of garment Trims must have elasticity they may be added around a curve Labels clothing o Nonwoven printed labels used on casual and low price o Woven label creates impression of high quality o Must withstand repeated home laundering abrasion chemicals can shorten life Thread o Yarn that forms stitches that can hold a garment together o Can be functional or aesthetic o Garments performance affected by this Strength Durability Appearance Texture o Fiber content Most are polyester nylon cotton or rayon o Types Staple yarns twisted together Filament monofilament or multifilament Corespun polyester or nylon with cotton or other fiber wrapping o Well coordinated thread color is mark of quality either matches or compliments garment o Typically color is slightly darker that fabric is the best match o Colorfast should fade in unison with garment fabric should not bleed or crock rub off Trims o Used more in garments for females and children o Should be compatible with wear and care requirements o Additional cost can vary widely Complex is more expensive Wider is more expensive Sewn on application is more expensive o Types Braid Trim made form gimp yarns interlace to create decorative pattern Available in a variety of colors patterns and widths Cording Soft cotton cellulose or synthetic yarn rope Fringe Diameter is 1 8 to 1 inch Sewn into seam or attached to face of garment Can add body and stiffness for standout effect or Outlines and emphasizes garment part or section Tape or braid with threads or cords that hang free Tape or braid stitched onto surface or inserted into seam Free hanging threads can be formed into tassels Used to Elongate hemline Decorate horizontal seams Emphasize movement when garment is worn Lace Twisting and knotting yarns or raschel knit Openwork pattern Floral motifs most common May have decorative edge Creates a feminine effect Picot is tiny teardrop Piping Bias stitched with or without cord filler Produced with seam allowance inserted into the seam Shows on face of garment Adds body and stiffness for standout effect Outlines and emphasizes bands applied to garment Ribbon Narrow firmly woven fabric Has a plain satin or picot edge Types Grosgrain Lace Organdy or Chiffon Jacquard Ch 8 Part 2 Closures Close or secure garment sections together Functional and or decorative Aka fasteners Includes o Buttons buttonholes button loops 03 11 2014 3 D Form Disk Knot other 3 D FORM Slipped through buttonholed loop or narrow opening Used to close or fasten garment sections together or attach something to garment Types Flat Dome Half round Ball Ligne leen unit of measure to indicate diameter of button size One ligne is 0 025 inches or one inch Decorative is not used to open and close garment or Functional used to open and close garment or parts on diameter is 40 ligne parts on a garment a garment Sewn through 2 3 4 sewing holes equidistant from center used to attach button to garment Flange portion where holes or eyes are drilled or formed Shank 3 D form protrusion on outside containing loop or hole to attach it to a garment Invisible attachment desired to not detract from garment appearance or Heavy and bulky fabrics used to construct garment Uses Blouses sweaters Dresses Gowns Loungewear Sleepwear and Robes Jackets Coats Outerwear Tack Button Shank not sewn with thread Attached by a single or a two prong tack Used for jeans skirts shorts and coveralls Inserted through back of garment Buttonholes Large enough to allow a button to pass through it Opening in garment Constructed on overlapping portion of garment Women button right over left Men button left over right Straight buttonhole Boxers shorts casual dress and sports shirts etc Rectangular Shape Zig Zag Stitches Keyhole buttonholes Eye provides more room to accommodate shanks Applications include blouses sweaters suits vests dresses and gowns Bound Buttonholes Decorative Require skill to make and add to garment For dresses blouses shirts outerwear trousers suits etc Vertical Buttonholes Used for o Narrow plackets or o Hidden button closures or o On knits where horizontal orientation could cause distortion Horizontal Buttonholes Most common for garments o Snap fasteners Mechanism consisting of ball and socket used to att garment parts together Uses when little to no strain at opening is desired or needed Smooth flat closure desired Behind a decorative without a buttonhole Fly front concealed closure Zippers Hooks o Set of wire fasteners o One is shaped into a hook consisting of a bill and base and the other is an eye formed into a bar or loop and base o Frog button o Toggle 2 piece closure consisting of loops and Chinese ball used for decorative closure accentuate closure details accentuate Asian inspired garments Oblong button barrel shaped or flat and long Sew through or shank Or two oops one with button Uses coats outerwear sweaters vests Drawstrings lacings ties Belts Buckles o Buckle is a open rim with single or central bar o May contain one or more prongs used to secure belt o Uses Define waistline Secure garment Decorative detail Anchor free ends of tabs on sleeves shoulders and pockets o Types Clasp buckle Interlocking Paired rings D rings Covered Belt the garment Other o Overall buckle Used to match garment or trim or to contrast with Two piece fastener of metal trim Uses fasten suspenders or straps of overalls to the bib on shoulder straps of sportswear similar to section overalls on aprons o Grommet Metal tube with a variety of shapes and sizes forms a rimmed opening on a garment Uses finish and strengthen punched openings For non overlapping closures like belts or corsets Accommodates scarf ribbon or a belt Decorative detail Used for heavier fabric o Metal Eyelet garment Round or square metal tube flattens when applied to Used to reinforce opening prevents opening from stretching out of shape