Business of Fashion CSFRST 2373 Exam 1 Study Guide What is Fashion Reasons we wear clothing Definition of fashion Status modesty decorative protection Scholarly Definition a dynamic social process by which new styles are created introduced to a consuming public and popularly accepted by the public The mode of dress etiquette furniture adopted in society for the time being A concept of what is currently appropriate The pursuit of novelty for its own sake A way of dressing behaving that is considered especially up to date or noticeably following the contemporary trend Fashion cycle Fashion leaders Process by which fashion acceptance rises peaks then declines Fashion Innovators CREATE fashion Fashion opinion leaders catch on early INFLUENCE others Early conformist SPREAD WORD Different lenses to view fashion through Cultural artistic social psychological physical business economics history Centuries of fashion Decade trends and how events influenced fashion 1900s 1910s 1920s 1930s Increase in immigrant population womens workers outside the home Automobiles telephones more money to spend Fashion Trends Women tall stiff collars small waist Gibson Girl bloomers Men Blockier shape with 3 pieces suits sack coat knickers Jeanne Pacquin Charles Frederick Worth World War I Changeover to mass production boom of ENTERTAINMENT Lighter materials and construction Women harem trousers turbans hobble skirt lampshade dress Men less full line Shortage of color dyes Jean Patou Coco Chanel Madeleine Vionnet Post WWI Expansion of MASS MEDIA development of new fabrics Women straight cut chemise dress flapper boyish silhouette Men conventional suits rise in sportswear Jean Patou Coco Chanel Madeliene Vionnet Jeanne Lanvin Depression era high unemployment Hollywood influence man made fibers Women longer skirts feminine look short hair bias cuts Men softer look broader padded shoulders Elsa Shiaparelli Madame Gres WWII Government restrictions exit france as fashion source shortage of materials Women knee length skirts square shouldered mannish jackets turban head covering New Look Men oversized jacket wide lapels and shoulders baggy low crotched trousers Claire McCardell Norman Norell Dior Nina Ricci REST ON SLIDES 1940s Democratization of Fashion Structure of Business Sole Proprietorship PROS Only a few business licenses needed Easy to dissolve A lot of control flexibility Often results in a great deal of personal satisfaction CONS Personally liable unlimited liability Expertise in all areas required Raising capital is more difficult personal funds credit family typically used Requires a business plan Often does books Accounting Profits are taxed as personal income Limited Liablity Company LLC Hybrid type of legal structure that provides the limited liability features of a corporation and tax benfits and flexibility of a partnership Owners referred to as members 1 or more Only liable for amount of money brought in business as defined in the contract Articles of Partnership of the contract defines partnership name partner and officers are named intension purpose defined Partnership Two or more individuals own business Contract forms partnership Profits shared according to contract Profits taxed as personal income to partners Partners have unlimited personal liability according to terms of contract Change in partners requires dissolution new contract C Corporation S Corporation Regular corporation Distributes profits through Divdends Double taxation Small domestic corporation Earnings taxed only the individual level Fashion Magazines Why are they important Fashion magazines in general communicated the higher end fashioin Promoted art photography printed not as often as today Promotion of French fashion French wanted US as customers Which magazine started fashion journalism Harper s Bazaar How did mail order catalogues influence fashion Allowed people in remote areas to have access to fashion information and affordable fashion Were patterns part of magazines Yes added papers patterns as supplements for name sewers Harper s Triangle Fire Fire at the Triangle Waist Company factory in NYC killed 146 workers Exposed the dangerous conditions in high rise factories and prompted the creation of new building fire safety codes around the United States Women s Wear Daily women s trade magazine Sometimes called the bible of fashion When did it happen and how is it relevant today March 25 1911 Beginning of unionism What is WWD Structure of Textile Industry Two generic families Natural Manufactred Man made Four components of textile processing Understand timing Basic fiber characteristics End uses by percentage of textiles Fiber processing Yarn spinning Fabric production Fabric finishing 36 fabrics for men s women s children s apparel OTC piece goods craft fabric 25 Floor coverings rugs carpets paddings 23 Industrial and other products tires ropes tents belting bags shoes slippers medical surgical supplies 16 Home fashion products drapery sheets pillowcases mattresses blankets tablecloths towels Greige goods No finishing treatments applied Finished by dyeing napping adding fire retardants glazing waterproofing and pressing Importance of color forecasting Color is the most important variable in both the fiber and the fabric market Integral part of textile product development Color forecasting services such as the International Colour Authority ICA the Color Box and Pantone provide advance research and trend information color swatches and palette predictions Trends Production of High Tech Fibers innovative unusual hard to achieve qualities Growing Global Competition textile industry facing growth of global competition GEOTEXTYLES manufactured permeable textiles used for reinforcing or stabilizing civil engineering products KELVAR and TYVEK industrial fabrics used for book covers wrapping houses to prevent moisture TEFLON nonstick cooking surface now used in garments to protect delicate fabrics RTW Market and Company organization Organized in the early 20th century by French Ministry for Indistry Provides an organized structure for showing collections press accreditation and maximum press coverage Protects designers against their designs being copied Line Collection Size standardization Standardized body dimensions Company size standards Wearing and design ease When and how often are introductions Haute couture and related terminology High fashion High sewing Produced in smaller quantities Uses considerable hand sewing