Chapter 4 04 15 2014 Apparel Production Overview Combination of human ingenuity sophisticated technology and innovative machinery Planning is imperative Drop ship date when the goods due in the store Calendars essential concept pre production production stages PDM Product Data Management o This is a system to track and monitor all phases of production of each style PLM Product Lifestyle Management o Manage entire lifestyle of product from conception through design and manufacturing to service and delivery Production cycles and time and action calendars vary from company to company based on o type of products manufactured o internal or external production o quickness to marketplace pressures in response to agile or lean manufacturing Apparel Production Cycle RTW Evaluation of previous line At what stage in fashion cycle is the style that sold well last season Has consumer demand changed o Trends enter and exit quickly o Classics last a long time Trend Analysis o Travel and observe street fashion o Attend trade shows o Establish in house trend department o Subscribe to forecasting services o Read trade publications and visit on line sites Design Technical Design production o Computer aided design and drafting CADD Enables creation manipulation and modification o Perfect the pattern pieces and make them ready for 1st patterns from design to individual pattern pieces sloper oak tag Digitizer convert paper pattern into digital form o Making design ready for production Sample garment made by experienced sewer only helps to determine production cost provides a 3 D Prototype Arrangement of pattern pieces to achieve most Marker efficient layout Spreading Laying out multiple piles of uncut fabric prior to cutting out pattern pieces Must watch for Fabric flaws Directional patterns or naps End of roll Fabrics that must relax before cutting Fabric accounts for 60 70 of total cost of basic styled garments Cutting Mistakes are expensive and may not be fixable Manual cutting requires skill accuracy and Computer guided cutting also used Knits may be cut with dies to avoid stretching Pattern pieces numbered and bundled after strength cutting Sourcing o Consider o Refers to the process of selecting raw material or components and appropriate country of origin and production facility Lead time Production capacity availability Quality Cost Culture differences Political and economic stability Transportation Government Regulations Human rights Costing a garment o Process of estimating and determining total cost of producing Raw material Labor Tariffs Transportation Insurance General Expenses of business operation o Standard Allowed Minutes SAM Amount of time needed to complete an operation effectively within each required operation of a garment o Wholesale Price manufacturer s price offered to buyer o Retail price price offered or charged to final consumer o Keystone Markup retailer pricing strategy that doubles the wholesale cost Balancing Cost and Quality o Consumers want good quality but a low price Major Production Methods o Progressive bundle system Piecework rate paid per item completed Standard allowed minutes Efficient assembly line production in factory Complete same task on each garment Work is passed in bundles from one operator to next manually traditional assembly line o Unit Production System Operators cross trained to do multiple jobs Computers used to send bundles to next operator System can detect when operators need to switch jobs Piece rate wages o Modular Manufacturing Operators work in teams Paid by team not by individual Sew one garment at a time Operators are cross trained and move among different Improved morale enhanced quality reduced worker stations turnover o Post assembly steps Wet and dry processing Color removal Wrinkle prevention Dyeing Pressing Finishing Trimming Inspecting Repair Rework Floor ready eg garments on hangers or GOH o Final Audit All aspects are checked Garment Packaging Labeling Carton marking accuracy Statistical sampling is used to check quality IF quality level is not met 100 inspection is done 04 15 2014 Chapter 5 Tucks Gusset area G Shape Pleats Stitched fold of fabrics Can be vertical horizontal or diagonal Diamond shaped unit or one or more pieces Allows freedom of movement when set into a fitted sleeve or crotch Inserted into slashed opening on a larger garment section Can also be circular to provide more mobility like for a dancer o Take up of excess fabric at edge of garment o Doubling the fabric ply upon itself o Can be single or series o Always vertical Godets Full Fashioned Knit stitches Lacing o Triangular fabric piece set into seam or slash usually at hem o Produce decorative fullness used mainly in o These marks indicate increase or decrease in number of o Change in number of stitches allows for shaping o Similar to drawstrings o Threaded through openings buttonholes o Pulled to shape Supporting the Shape Items used to enhance and preserve the garment s shape Main outer fabric body fashion shell fabric Underlying fabrics or supporting fabrics are inside the garment Supporting fabrics are usually a sign of quality Gsupport o Interfacing Lends body shape and reinforcement to limited areas Used for collars collar bands cuffs buttons and buttonholes pockets waistbands and other small design details Hidden between garment and facing o Interlining Insulative material for warmth Inserted between garment and lining Can also be used for temporary support ex Embroidery As temporary support the interlining is made so that it can be removed Cut away Tear away Water soluble stabilizer o Lining Unit assembled in same or similar silhouette as garment Can be woven or knitted Woven most common due to stability smooth surface Knit linings can provide comparable stretch to outer shell fabric Uses Conceal raw edges construction details Facilitate ease of putting on or taking off garment Prevent outer fabric from direct content with the body Provide warmth Prolong life of garment Makes garment look smoother and less apt to wrinkle Free hanging Partial lining Lining attached to seam vs hem with swing tacks Prevents this lining from riding up Similar silhouette as garment but only a portion of the garment Uses Maintain shape Conceal construction details in tailored jackets coats Detatchable Lining Unit assembled in similar silhouette as a part of the garment can be removed held in place with buttons snaps zippers etc Used in outerwear and all weather garments o