Chapter 12 Basic Weaves and Fabric MDSE 2650 Textiles for Apparel Fabric Structure The fabric forming process o Weaving most common Knitting Structure affects o Fabric appearance Texture Luster Tenacity o Dimensional Stability Cost Characteristics of Woven Yarn o Performance Unraveling 3 Types 1 Twill 1 up 1 down 2 Plain 2 up 2 down 3 Satin 4 up 1 down o yarn changes position from one side of fabric to the other o crossing over more than 1 yarn at time produces floats and fewer interlacings Two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles Warp yarn o lengthwise direction Weft or filling yarns o crosswise direction Most common method of producing fabric Rigid and firm Low stretch yarns unravel at cut edges Yarn interlace Interlacing movement of warp yarn thru filling yarn Warp yarn held on the loom o Stronger o more uniform o higher twist Filling yarns o often special use yarns Fancy Low twist for napping Grain o position of warp relative to filling yarns o on grain warp yarns parallel to each other and perpendicular to filling o off grain results in uneven drape crooked designs and twisted seams Fabric count or fabric density o Number of yarns per square inch of fabric o Affects fabric quality MDSE 2650 Textiles for Apparel Dimensional stability Opaqueness Softness Strength o Higher count usually means Better quality Less shrinkage More softness How many warp or and filling yarns per sq inch warp x weft count Balance vs unbalanced fabric count o The ratio of warp yarns to filling weft yarns o Balanced ratio of 1 1 or 80 x 80 ex o Unbalanced ratio 2 1 or 144 x 76 ex Needs to be a 1 1 ratio or very close When unraveled is there more yarn on one side than the other Do the yarns appear to be the same size Lab Count a quarter of an inch of yarn and multiply by 4 Fabric weight ounces per sq yard o Signals the buyer of appropriate end use of fabrics o Lightweight or top weight 4 0 oz yd2 Softer more comfortable more drape Shirts blouses dresses linings o Medium weight o Heavyweight Bottom weight or suiting weight 4 0 60 oz yd2 Stiffer shirts dresses 6 0 oz yd2 Pants skirts outerwear Compare Yarns Swatch 62 Bengaline o Warp thin filament yarns w low twist o Filling weft spun yarns W moderate twist o Uses Dressy Jackets evening wear Swatch 85 Crepe back Satin o Warp thin filament yarns W low twist o Filling weft thin filament high crepe twist yarns o Uses Bridal Eveningwear MDSE 2650 Textiles for Apparel SWATCH REFERENCE Fabric Count Swatch 11 Flannel wool Balanced weave of 44x40 Swatch 14 China Silk Balanced weave of 128x116 Swatch 18 Gabardine Balanced weave of 100x60 Swatch 42 Georgette Unbalanced weave of 176x84 Swatch 54 Canvas Unbalanced weave of 88x30 Swatch 57 Oxford Chambray Unbalanced weave of 156x62 SWATCH REFERENCE Fabric Count Swatch 152 Triple mesh Lightweight 2 31 oz sq yd Uses junior market Swatch 76 Gabardine Medium weight 5 05 oz sq yd Uses slacks and separates Swatch 171 Leather Heavyweight 8 8 oz sq yd Uses Jackets footwear handbags Basic Weaves o Plain o Twill o Satin Plain Weaves Simple weaves with the same interlace pattern throughout entire fabric pattern Types Simplest of the weaves least expensive to produce Each warp yarn interlaces with each filling yarn for a basic 1 up 1 down movement Highest number of interlacing Wrinkles easily No true front or back Examples of plain weaves Chiffon Georgette Lawn Gauze Organza Gingham Chambray Ideal for surface printing Counting and weight can differ Very flat MDSE 2650 Textiles for Apparel Plain Weave Variations Unbalanced plain weave or rib weave o Creates a ribbed effect o Warp rib weave Rib effect along the length makes it heavier Rib effect in crosswise direction o Filling weft o Ribs due to Yarn cramming Using large yarn Examples of plain rib weave fabric Broadcloth Moir Faille Taffeta Basket Weaves Twill Weave 2 or more warp yarns interlacing with 1 or more filling weft yarns Loose construction and flexible fabric Less interlacing so more resistant Warp yarns float across 2 or more filling yarns shifting by 1 yarn across fabric Forms a whale or diagonal line Strong and resilient Stains are less visible Even sided o Same of warp filling yarns on each side o Same front and back o Common interlace patter of 2 up 2 down Warp faced o More warp yarn lie on the face o Stronger resist pulling and abrasion o Distinct front and back o Common interlace pattern up 2 down 1 or 3 up down 1 o Examples of twill weave Houndstooth Surah Wool Serge Denim Chino Satin Weave MDSE 2650 Textiles for Apparel Satin o Warp yarns float over 4 or more filling yarns o Long floats on surface Create high luster Tend to snag o Commonly high yarn counts o AKA filling yarn faced satin o Filling yarns create floats Sateen