GEOG 2300 1st Edition Lecture 34Outline of Last Lecture I. Ocean TidesII. Ocean WavesOutline of Current Lecture I. Shallow Water WavesII. Human Impacts on the OceanCurrent LectureI. Shallow Water WavesA. Surf: sequence of breaking wavesB. Swash: water sliding up beachC. Backwash: water flowing back down beach to seaD. A seagull is in the middle of the ocean, a wave train from the east passes by, how does the seagull move? In a circular motion going west at the wave crestand east in the wave trough, but still in the same place after the wave train passedE. Wave refraction: close to coast, water gets more shallow, waves are slowed down, if waves arrive at an angle one part is slower than the rest, causes waves to bend=wave refraction, bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water is due to drag along the bottom and the differential speed along the crestII. Human Impacts on the OceanA. Nonpoint source pollution from agricultural runoff that contains fertilizers (nitrogen and phosphorus) and pesticides B. Pesticides can also kill shrimp and other organisms in the ocean, shrimp are arthropods like insects and pestsC. Fertilizers can cause dead zones from the excess nutrients and the process of eutrophicationD. More invasive species from more shipping and trading, exotic species get intothe ballast water of ships E. Overfishing has led to the depletion of commercial fish populations, 75% of world’s commercially valuable marine fish are overfished, we throw away 30% of the fish we catchThese notes represent a detailed interpretation of the professor’s lecture. GradeBuddy is best used as a supplement to your own notes, not as a substitute.F. Bycatch: fisherman unintentionally kill dolphins, sea turtles, and sea birds leading to their deaths, shrimp fishing has the biggest bycatch to shrimp ratioG. Aquaculture: fish farming, produces waste that can pollute ocean water and harm marine organisms, animal waste (chicken guts) used as feeding pellets for fish, more diseases in fish farmsH. Point source pollution: passenger cruise ships dump sewage, shower, sink water and oily bilge water, other point source pollution as well (sewage)I. Coastal development: developers destroy important coastal habitat such as salt marshes and mangrove swampsJ. Marine debris: remnant fishing nets and trash catch endangered sea turtles and other animalsK. Habitat destruction: trawl nets (net dragged across the ocean floor) destroy habitat, oil spills also destroy habitatsL. Climate change: coral reefs and polar seas are particularly vulnerable to increasing temperatures, rising sea levels, ocean acidification coral bleaching and it is harder for shellfish to create shellsM. In a bay and headland coastline, where is the wave energy most focused? Energy is most focused at the headland because the bottom of approaching waves hits the shallow bottom of the headland first and slows
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