DM 120 1st Edition Lecture 16 Outline of Last Lecture Dyeing effects differences Printing All types Manufacturing issues Outline of Current Lecture Finishes Classes of Finishes o Aesthetic vs Functional Process of Permanence Cleaning procedures Textile Finishes Chapter 10 Finishes any process that is done to a fiber to change the appearance hand or performance Aesthetic modified appearance hand or drape of a fabric Functional improves performance Class of Finishes Mechanical Creates physical change only Chemical Creates chemical change within the fiber Additive adding a substance to fabric surface Special Purpose Improves fabric performance and minimums fabric s problems Degree of Permanence Permanent Chemical change that doesn t fade Durable Finish Last throughout the lifetime of the article but diminishes after cleaning Semidrable Last for several cleanings but can be renewable Temporary removed or diminished first time the article is washed Cleaning Operations Cleaning removing dirt from woven or knit fibers Boiled Off high heated water bath Scoving Cleaning of woolens Desizing Enzyme solution dissolves warp stretches Carbonizing Removing leafs and grass particles from wool Singeing Burring off projecting fibers Bleaching making the fabric white Optical Brightness enhancing the color Resins chemicals applied as a wet finished Aesthetic Finishes Changing the appearance Fragrances odor that is chemical released with movement Fulling finish for smoother and more compact fiber Mercerization improves dye affinity and luster a Most important finish for cotton because increases fabric strength by 25 and permanent Calendaring produces of smoothing and flat ironed finish through a set of rollers under high speed pressure a Flatten yarns producing soft but weaken fabric b Mostly woven plain twill weaves c Temporary for cellusious but permanent on thermoplastics