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CSU NR 150 - Circulation vs. Waves

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NR 150 1st Edition Lecture 10Outline of Last Lecture I. Mass flow of ocean water is driven by wind and gravityII. Surface currents flow around the periphery of ocean basinsIII. Seawater flows in six great surface circuitsIV. Gyres with and without the Coriolis effectV. Westward intensificationVI. The center of the gyresOutline of Current Lecture VII. Circulation vs. WavesVIII. Waves: ConceptCurrent LectureI. Circulation vs. Wavesa. Circulationi. Transport mass1. Ekman transport2. Geostrophic flowii. Affected by Coriolisiii. Examples: gyresb. Wavesi. Transfer energyii. Not affected by Coriolisiii. Example: stadium wavesII. Waves: ConceptThese notes represent a detailed interpretation of the professor’s lecture. GradeBuddy is best used as a supplement to your own notes, not as a substitute.a. Waves transmit energy, not water mass, across the ocean’s surfaceb. Because waves have no mass, they aren’t affected by the Coriolis forcec. Ocean waves are orbital waves, in which water molecules move in closed circles (orbits) as the wave passesd. Anatomy of a Progressive Wavei. Frequency: number of wave crests (highest point of a wave) passing pointA or Point B each secondii. Period: time required for a wave crest at Point A to reach Point Biii. Trough: lowest point of a wavee. The behavior of waves is influenced by the depth of the water through which they are movingi. Deep-water waves: depth greater than half of the wavelength (L/2)ii. Shallow-water waves: depth is less than (L/20)f. Wind blowing over the ocean generates wavesg. Capillary waves (ripples)i. Wind acts as a disturbing forceii. Surface tension acts as the restoring forceh. Combers or whitecaps formi. If the wave’s steepness >1:7 ratio of height:length, or >120 degree angleii. Wind energy is dissipated as heati. Wind waves travel in groups called wave trainsi. Wind waves store more energy than any other wave typej. Many factors influence wind wave developmenti. Swell: the smooth undulation of ocean water caused by wave dispersionii. Wind strength: wind must be moving faster than the wave crest for energy transfer to continueiii. Wind duration: winds that blow for a short time will not generate large wavesiv. Fetch: uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without significant change in directionv. Fully developed sea: the maximum wave size possible for a wind of specific strength, duration, and fetchk. Wave heights are the highest where there is no interference of continents (Antarctic)l. Interference produces irregular wave motionsi. Waves meeting interfere with one anotherii. Destructive interference: two waves can cancel each other outiii. Constructive interference: additive interference that results in waves larger than the original wavesiv. Rogue wave: interference results in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximumm. Other wavesi. Shallow-water waves1. Deep-water waves change to shallow-water waves as they approach the shoreii. Internal waves1. Can form between layers of differing densitiesiii. Standing waves1. Seiche: rocking back and forth at a specific resonant frequency in a confined areaiv. Storm surges1. An abrupt bulge of water driven on shore by a tropical cyclone/hurricane or a frontal storm2. Created by low atmospheric pressure underneath the storm3. Short-lived, but can be up to 7.5 meters high4. Consists of only a crestv. Tidal waves1. Rogue waves are not tidal waves2. Large sets of windwaves are not tidal waves3. Tsunamis are not tidal waves4. Storm surges are not tidal wavesn. Waves refract when they approach a shore at an


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