DM 120 1st Edition Exam 3 Study Guide Lectures 8 13 Lecture 8 9 10 February 25 March 2 March 4 Fabric Construction Woven Fabrics Woven Fabric Interlocking yarns at right angles to each other Warp Yarns Run vertically length wise direction Weft Filling Yarns Run horizontal wide wise direction Selvages Length edges of the fabric Grain direction parallel to the weft filling yarns On Grain Fabric cut parallel to either weft or warp fibers Off Grain Bias direction that is not parallel to either yarn Selvage ending of warp yarns Face and Back Due to the finish or weaving also better appearance on face side Top and Bottom Due to finishing only Plain Weave Simplest most used weave Each yarn is parallel to each other Firm construction Poor wrinkle quality low tear strength Ribbed Plain Weave Filling yarns are thicker than warp yarns Also called unbalance fabric Ribbed effect can be in both directions Basket Weave Two or more warp yarns interlocking with two or more filling yarns They are interlocked in plain weave sequence 2X2 is the most common weave structure Needs two harnesses to make pattern Used for decorative shrinks low shape stability Twill Weave Left Hand lines run upward to the left Right Hand lines run upward to the right Over to 2 filling yarns and then under 1 filling yarn 45 degree when one or more filling yarns higher or lower than the last Creates diagonal line Satin Weave only one interlacing for each warp yarn and only one interlacing for filling yarns Relatively long floats Warp face Satin see mostly warp yarn on face Filling face Satin see mostly filling warp yarns on face Five harness is usually most common type of float Fabric floats over making it softer and smoother Weave Floats When the yarn doesn t interlace with the next adjacent yarn but passes over two or more yarns Fewer interlacing gives more yard per inch Satin has most yard per inch is why it has good luster and softness Lecture 11 12 March 9 March 11 Knitted Fabrics Knitter Purchases yarn rather than spin their own Direct Knitter purchase yarns knit products in their own plants making their own product selling it under their name Commission Knitter Produce knit products for 2 nd part Important Knit Terms MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A CLEAR UNDERSTANDING OF EACH WORD Wales Columns of stitches in a knitted fabric Yarns are interloping while woven fabrics are interlacing Courses Rows of stitches Face Back Face is the side in which there are more knit stitches Wales per inch the needles per inch density of needle affects the size of the loop Courses per inch the height of stitch loop small loop larger numbers of courses per inch Cut number of slots per inch in the machine Garage needles per measured length in machine Knitting Machines Circular Machines a Needles in a circular configuration which produces fabric I tubular b Makes fabrics 2 5 30 inches Flat Machines a Needles in a straight line produce flat fabrics b Produce with fabrics 12 200 inches c Makes cable patterns Complete Garment Flatbed Systems a Produces a complete and seamless garment b Lowers the cost of production because less cutting and sewing c Allows the ability to knit combinations of patterns and stitches Knitting Stiches Knit Stitches basic Purl Stitches reverse of basic Miss Stitches needles are deactivated and no stitch is formed Tuck Stitches needles hold it old loop and collecting second loop Warp Knit Yarns run vertically in the length of the fabric Tricot Fabric Not commonly used Weft Knits Yarns run horizontally Most common type of knit Can be made from a single yarn Can be produced on either circular or flat machine Needles slide back and forth Jersey Knit a Single Knit all loops drawn to one side b The face of the fabric is smooth c Jersey Machine Plain Machine Single Machine d Has only one needle set in needle bed e Fabric has properties of unbalanced and curved edges Rib Knit a Stitches on both sides b No knit or purl in the same wale c Stitches in the length direction d Fabric properties is flat surface with no curves e Great elasticity f No difference between the face and back side g Two sets of needles positioned at right angle h Appearing alternating on both sides of the fabric Purl Knit a Similar as plain knit with different technique Lecture 13 March 23 Nonwoven Fabrics Basic Fabric Textile structure produced by bonding or interlocking of fibers in web like Fibers Bonding Agent Provides strength Auxiliary Agent To Enhance fibers Films A thin layer of materials made from chemical solution Can be made to look like other fibers Water air soil resistance Manufacturing Methods Drylaid System Fiber manipulated while in a dry state Wetlaid System Fibers manipulated while wet Sunlaid System Thermoplastic fibers blown onto a collection surface Types of Non Woven Fabrics Cared Web Nonwoven forming a web of fibers then bonding fibers Spunlaced Nonwoven entanglement of stable fibers using high pressure jets Spun Bonded Nonwoven Continued filament fibers into a web Melt Brown Nonwoven Filaments are reduced to small fibers that are then spun into a web Needle Punched Nonwoven Entanglement of fibers pierced by a needle Felt Oldest know textile interlocking of animal fibers Produced with heat water and agitation Laminated Fabric is joined to a continues sheet of material Lightweight inexpensive Lace An open fabric with complex patterns Classified by technique appearance Quality based on yarn size and design Parametric Fabric Fine pieces of polymer on surface Waterproof Windproof Fiber Fill Textile not fabric Lightweight Good resiliency