DM 120 1st Edition Lecture 11 March 9 2015 Outline of Last Lecture Broken Twill Weave Satin Weave Weave Float Special Fabric Weaves Technology Advances Outline of Current Lecture Knitted Fabrics Wales Courses Types of Fabrics Knitted Fabrics Knitter Purchases yarn rather than spin their own Direct Knitter purchase yarns knit products in their own plants making their own product selling it under their name Commission Knitter Produce knit products for 2 nd part Knit Terms Wales Columns of stitches in a knitted fabric Yarns are interloping while woven fabrics are interlacing Courses Rows of stitches Face Back Face is the side in which there are more knit stitches Wales Courses Wales per inch the needles per inch density of needle affects the size of the loop Courses per inch the height of stitch loop small loop larger numbers of courses per inch Knitting Machines Circular Machines a Needles in a circular configuration which produces fabric I tubular b Makes fabrics 2 5 30 inches Flat Machines a Needles in a straight line produce flat fabrics b Produce with fabrics 12 200 inches c Makes cable patterns Complete Garment Flatbed Systems a Produces a complete and seamless garment b Lowers the cost of production because less cutting and sewing c Allows the ability to knit combinations of patterns and stitches Knitting Needles Latch Spring Beard Compound Needles Just need to know what type there are Don t need to know the shape Cut Garage Cut number of slots per inch in the machine Garage needles per measured length in machine Fabric Classification Named for the construction not appearance Weft Knits used in sweaters Warp Knits used in lingerie Basic Knitting Stitches Knit Stitches basic Purl Stitches reverse of basic Miss Stitches needles are deactivated and no stitch is formed Tuck Stitches needles hold it old loop and collecting second loop