DM 120 1st Edition Lecture 10 March 4 2015 Outline of Last Lecture Fabric Features Twill Weave Plain Weave o Ribbed Plain Weave o Basket Weave Outline of Current Lecture Broken Twill Weave Satin Weave Weave Float Special Fabric Weaves Technology Advances Woven Fabric 3 Twill Weaves Higher yard per inch gives better strength Broken Twill Weaves Combines right and left hand twills Gives zig zag effect Satin Weave only one interlacing for each warp yarn and only one interlacing for filling yarns Relatively long floats Warp face Satin see mostly warp yarn on face Filling face Satin see mostly filling warp yarns on face Five harness is usually most common type of float Fabric floats over making it softer and smoother Weave Float When the yarn doesn t interlace with the next adjacent yarn but passes over two or more yarns Fewer interlacing gives more yard per inch Satin has most yard per inch is why it has good luster and softness Special Fabric Weaves Pile Weaves a Woven Pile Fabrics Wrap Pile Fabric Filling Pile Fabrics Cut Pile Fabrics Uncut Weave Fabrics b Ex Terry Cloth Woven Design Dobby Patter Design contains simple geometric forms Jacquard Pattern Design that contains detailed motifs Clip Spot Pattern Extra yarn interlace then floats over the weft yarns Color Pattern Altering the color of the weave Technology Advances Factors affect the cost Fiber content Quality Type Yarn Type Fiber content spun vs Filament Construction Weave used New Developments Cost of raw materials energy Enhancing mill flexibility making multiple fabrics Quick responds to demands Increasing productivity Improving ability to use new fabrics and finishes