DM 120 1st Edition Lecture 8 February 25 2015 Outline of Last Lecture Had Exam 2 Last class Outline of Current Lecture Fabric Construction Woven Fabrics o Types of Woven Fabrics Grains vs Bia o Warp Yarns Filling Yarns Fabric Construction Woven Fabrics Woven Fabrics Interlocking yarns at right angles to each other Warp Yarns Run vertically length wise direction Weft Filling Yarns Run horizontal wide wise direction Selvages Length edges of the fabric Grain direction parallel to the weft filling yarns On Grain Fabric cut parallel to either weft or warp fibers Off Grain Bias direction that is not parallel to either yarn Grain vs Bia Fabric cut off of grain results in a skewed portion of the product When fabric is cut on 45 degree angle it reaches its maximum stretch Maximum yarn blending is when maximum force is applied on the Bias When stretched in warp direction lowest amount of stretch Making Woven Fabrics Hand Loom was originality used Types of Looms Now a Projectile Loom b Rapier Loom c Jet Loom Air jet Water jet d Multiphase Loom Fabric Features Only features that you must know how to identify Selvages Warp or Filling Yarns Top side or Bottom side Yarns per inches Type of Woven Weaves Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave Specify Weave Plain Weave a Simplest most used weave b Each yarn is parallel to each other c Firm construction d Poor wrinkle quality low tear strength
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