UMass Amherst GEO-SCI 103 - Longshore Drift and the Formation of Beaches (4 pages)

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Longshore Drift and the Formation of Beaches



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Longshore Drift and the Formation of Beaches

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In this lecture we examine how sediment builds along the coastal zone of beaches through processes of erosion, transportation and deposition. In addition, we observe the concepts of longshore drift and the impact on coastal dynamics.


Lecture number:
19
Pages:
4
Type:
Lecture Note
School:
University of Massachusetts Amherst
Course:
Geo-Sci 103 - Intro Oceanography GenEd: PS
Edition:
1

Unformatted text preview:

GEO SCI 103 Lecture 19 Outline of Current Lecture Longshore Drift and the Formation of Beaches p 240 241 246249 I Sediment in the coastal Zone A Coastal Zone B Rocky Coastlines C Erosion D Transportation E Deposition II Longshore Drift and Coastal Dynamics A Longshore Drift B Coastal Dynamics III Wave Refraction Bending of Waves Current Lecture I Sediment in the Coastal Zone The distribution of sediments in the coastal zone is a function of the energy environment Sand and gravel accumulate along beaches whereas silt clay and organic matter are found in estuaries lagoons and mudflats A Coastal Zone a Constitutes the initial dumping ground for all the materials that are brought down to sea by rivers wind or ice b Materials include a variety of particles INORGANIC or ORGANIC biogenic origin c Grain size of a sedimentary deposit reflects the energy of the wind water or ice that transported the particles as well as environment sand pebbles B Rocky Coastlines a Sediment characterized by the largest grain sizes boulders cobbles and pebbles which are derived from the erosion of sea cliffs or exposed bedrock b Develop in pockets between higher energy rocky exposures These notes represent a detailed interpretation of the professor s lecture GradeBuddy is best used as a supplement to your own notes not as a substitute c Sandy shorelines beaches are typically composed of rounded sand size rock fragments mineral grains or biogenic particles such as whole or broken shells d Beach is made of whatever sedimentary particles are locally available from river runoff or coastal erosion e Mud found in estuaries marshes and bays is composed of clay and silt sized particles together with variable amounts of organic detritus C Erosion a Mud delivered to ocean by rivers and erosion of coastal areas such as rocky headlands sea cliffs etc b Erosion of coast is caused by pounding of surf tides severe storms strong winds and rising sea level c Wind redistributes sand in a natural give and take



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