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1 Class 12: Tides, Waves, Tsunamis, Oceanography Today’s topics: • Tides • Wave features • Tsunamis • Oceanography Class Updates • Reading: 16.1-16.5!• Homework #5 assigned today • Final Exam: Mon. May 9th @ 4pm Class 12: Tides, Waves, Tsunamis, Oceanography Ocean Tides - What Causes Them?2 Ocean Tides From Gravity F ~ M / R2 F = force M = mass R = radius Tidal Pulls: Moon vs. Sun Which exerts a greater pull - Moon or Sun? Daily Tides from the Moon3 Monthly Tides: Moon Phases & Sun Extreme Tides l o w tide high tide Bay of Fundy (Nova Scotia, Canada) Which statement is most correct about spring tides? a. They occur in the spring. b. They occur when the sun, the moon and the Earth all fall on a straight line c. They are the largest high tides on Earth d. Both statements b and c are true.4 a. Yes, and they would be much LARGER b. Yes, but they would be much SMALLER c. No, we would not have tides d. Maybe, it depends on the season If Earth didn’t have a moon, would we still have tides? Sea Waves 1 2 3 4 Circular Motion of Water5 Types of Waves Sediment Transport Along Coastlines Beaches6 Rocky Coastlines cliffs plaforms Sandy Coastlines Barrier Islands Tsunamis Banda Aceh, Sumatra, Indonesia December 26, 2004 Magnitude 9.37 Underwater fault 1. BIG earthquake 2. BIG earthquakeTsunami generated 3. Tsunami Animation Tsunami Example: Sumatra8 2011 Japan Tsunami Review: Ocean in Motion Oceanography!9 The Oceans!Ocean Water Composition!Salty Origin!10 Where do ions go?!Salt Balance!Salinity of Ocean Surface!11 Changes with depth!Top: Mixed Zone!Middle: Transition Zone!12 Bottom: Deep Zone!From North to South!Water is moving!13 • Warm water cools in North Atlantic!• Cold water sinks:! cold = densest!The Water Pump! Warm water cools in North Atlantic Cold water sinks: cold = densestAtlantic Deep Water!Surface Currents!14 Adding complication!Currents and Winds!Currents and Winds!15 Coriolis Effect!El Nino-Step 1!El Nino-Step 2!16 El Nino-Step 3!Southern Oscillation!• El Nino and La Nina are the extreme hot and cold parts of the Southern Oscillation


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