UF OCE 3016 - Sediment Transport and Coastal Processes Definitions

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Sediment Transport and Coastal Processes Definitions accretion - natural or artificial deposition of sediment in a particular location barrier island - a deposit of sand, parallel to the shore and raised above sea level beach nourishment - the restoration of a beach the mechanical placement of sand on the beach for recreational and/ or shore protection purposes berm - nearly horizontal portion of a beach with an abrupt face, formed from the deposition of material by wave action at high tide berm crest - ridge marking the seaward limit of the berm biogeneous shoreline - shorelines formed by the deposition of calcareous sediment derived from offshore coral reefs. bulkhead - structure (like seawalls and revetments) built to separate the land from the water to prevent erosion and other damage primarily due to wave action. Bulkheads are typically smaller structures designed to retain shore material under less severe wave conditions than seawalls. cohesive sediment - sediment particles with small diameters (usually less than 0.02 mm) and for which the attractive forces between particles are larger than gravitational forces. These particles tend to cohere to one another forming flat plate-like clumps called “flocs.” cross shore transport - the displacement of sediment perpendicular to the shore (onshore or offshore), usually into a berm (onshore) or into an offshore bar (offshore) deltaic shoreline - shoreline formed by the deposition of sediment at the mouth of large sediment-laden rivers emergence shoreline - shoreline formed by sea level lowering or land rising (due to tectonic change, for example), characterized by a straight shoreline and mild beach profiles erosion - the removal of sediment from a particular location by the action of wind or water estuary - semi-enclosed body of water having a free connection with the open ocean where fresh water from land runoff mixes with sea water groin - shore perpendicular structure, installed singly or as a field of groins, designed to trap sand from the littoral drift system or to hold sand in place. headland - rocky outcropping jutting from a shore; often perpendicular to the shore and usually with an associated shoal jetty - a shore perpendicular structure located near an inlet or harbor entrance to reduce infilling of the inlet or channel and protect the entrance and provide vessel sheltering from waves longshore bar - offshore ridge or mound of sand, gravel or other loose material running parallel to the shore which is submerged (at least at high tide) and located a short distance from the shore. longshore current - current produced in the surf zone by wave breaking at an angle to the shore; it runs roughly parallel to the shoreline.longshore transport (littoral drift) - the displacement of sediment down the shore (parallel to the shore). longshore trough - a long, wide, shallow depression on the seafloor running parallel to the shore non-cohesive sediment - sediment particles with large diameters (usually greater than 0.02 mm) and for which the attractive forces between particles are less than gravitational forces. offshore breakwater - a structure, usually shore parallel, composed of rocks and designed to protect a shore area, harbor, anchorage or basin from waves. offshore current - any current flowing away from the shore offshore transport - movement of sediment or water away from the shore onshore current - any current flowing toward the shore onshore transport - movement of sediment or water toward the shore revetments - structure (like seawalls and bulkheads) built to separate the land from the water to prevent erosion and other damage. Revetments are designed to protect shorelines and waterways from erosion by currents and small waves. salt water wedge - intrusion of salt water along the bottom in an estuary; the wedge moves upstream on high tide and down stream on low tide. sand spit - low tongue of land or a relatively long, narrow shoal extending from the land. scarp - elongated and comparatively steep slope separating flat or gently sloping areas on the seafloor or on a beach scour - erosion of sediment near a structure due to increased flow velocities, increased turbulence and/ or secondary flows near the structure. sea level rise - apparent rise in average sea level of the ocean measured relative to a land mass. Can be the result of ice cap melting but also may be the result of land submergence. Current global rate is 11 cm/ 100 years. seawall - structure (like bulkheads and revetments) built to separate the land from the water to prevent erosion and other damage primarily due to wave action. Seawalls are typically large and designed to withstand the full force of storm waves. shoal - elevation of the sea bottom comprising and material except rock or coral (in which case it is a reef) and which may endanger surface navigation submergence shoreline - shoreline formed by sea level rise or land subsidence, characterized by irregular features and steep beach profiles swash zone - that region on the beach face delineated at the upper level by the maximum uprush of the wave and at its lower extremity by the maximum downrush tidal prism - the quantity of water that moves into and out of a bay during a (astronomical) tidal cycle. Approximately equal to the bay area times the tide range. tombolo - the combination of an offshore rock or island which is connected to the beach by a sand


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UF OCE 3016 - Sediment Transport and Coastal Processes Definitions

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